At Judd’s, “it’s like ‘Cheers’ without the booze”

Thomas Judd’s Store Co. has been a St. George institution since 1911. | Lee Benson, Deseret News

ST. GEORGE

Depending on which report you want to cite, St. George and suburbs ranks as either the first, second or third fastest-growing metropolitan area in America. Every year, another 3% to 4% show up. Twenty years ago the population was 91,215. Ten years ago it was 138,393. Today it’s over 172,000, with outlet malls and ring roads and every franchise from Applebee’s to In-N-Out to Zagg to prove it.

And yet, right smack in the middle of the sprawl there’s this tiny little store tying the future to the past.

Thomas Judd’s Store Co. is located at 62 Tabernacle in the very heart of St. George, a few blocks north of the LDS temple and another couple blocks south of Brigham Young’s winter home, two other institutions that have been around awhile.

The little building with adobe walls was built sometime in the late 1800s and converted to a general store in 1911. It’s been selling stuff ever since. Back in the day it was shoes, spurs, rope, flour and candy; today it’s candy, ice cream, soda pop and soup.

On paper, Judd’s, with its squeaky wood floors and lack of a modern marketing and advertising campaign, has no business being in business.

But it turns out there’s a niche for selling yesterday today, especially when you throw in homemade soup.

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Besides being the store’s manager, Heather Graff is Judd’s resident historian and cheerleader. She grew up in a house two blocks away and went to school across the street. Her association with Judd’s goes back as far as she can remember.

“When I was little I’d come for the candy cigarettes,” she says, “then later on I’d come in and get a Twinkie and a Pepsi and I’ve kinda just done that every day since.”

Heather is not what you’d call old; she’s only 38. But at that, she can remember when St. George had a single stoplight and one high school. In her short lifetime, she — and Judd’s — have seen their hometown become a behemoth.

Fifteen years ago, Heather started working at Judd’s. It was owned at the time by Ed and Lindy Sandstrom, who had bought the store from Mark and Barbara Greene, who had bought the store from the Judd family, the original owners. Four years ago, the Sandstroms sold the business to Jared and Rebecca Gulbranson, transplanted Canadians who moved to St. George with the wave of newcomers and decided they wanted to help their new town stay connected to its roots.

That’s four owners in 111 years.

When the Greenes bought the store from Thomas Judd’s descendants in 1982 the city wanted to tear the building down and turn it into a parking lot. But the Greenes made Judd’s an anchor for the Green Gate historic block and saved it from extinction.

When the Sandstroms took over, notes Heather, they brought soup to the lineup. An important contribution. Every day, Judd’s offers a choice of three homemade soups. It has become a popular draw, and soup, she further points out, carries a better profit margin than old-time candy and pop, which is expensive to carry.

“Nostalgia gets them in the door,” says Heather. “But soup keeps it open.”

The clientele ranges from all ages. Little kids are drawn by the enormous selection of candy and soda pop, but so are their parents, because where else are you going to find Clove and Beemans gum and Nehi, Green River and Bubble Up soda?

Walk into Judd’s and everyone feels young.

“I think we’re pretty fun,” says Heather. “That’s our niche. It’s like ‘Cheers’ without the booze.”

Exactly what Thomas Judd, who was born in England in 1845 and died in St. George in 1922, would have to say if he walked in the door of his old establishment is impossible to conjure, other than, “We’re still open!” Yes sir, and still selling candy — with a soup chaser.

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